Don't say it... "He Just Wants To Play"

Out of the corner of my eye I see a dog making a beeline for her, he greeted her head on, mouth still full of carrot. Penny moved away slowly towards us but was followed, the dog bounced and tried very hard to get Penny to play, she wasn't interested giving lots of body language expressing this, the dog clearly didn't speak dog very well and he tried even harder, bouncing in her face and barking, I'm sure Penny was intimidated by the situation and he was leaving her little choice and the only option was to escalate her behaviour with hope to stop the unwanted play advances.

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The "Please Don't Pull Like A Train" Game!

When someone says to you "Loose Lead Walking" what image does it conjure up?

For me it's a calm, relaxed dog walking by my side on a nice smiling (or "j shaped") lead attached to an appropriate harness giving me the occasional glance. Not obediently stuck to my knee but, also, not pulling my arm out of it's socket.

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You Are Human, They Are A Dog

We are two completely different species. There are similarities for sure but there are also vast differences. So, as we embark on our journeys with either rescue dogs (or puppies) let’s look through some of these classic miscommunications and expectations and see where we are getting it wrong.

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Don't Frustrate Your Mate

When training a dog that easily gets frustrated, it's important to recognise signs of frustration building up so we can make exercises easier or abandon them and return to it later. For your dog being overly frustrated will not help them learn new behaviours and hinder your progress... which is a bummer for everyone.

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The Tree Rabbit Saga: Part One


So there I was at the base of a beautiful oak tree. I didn't choose to come here I was taken here against my will. Dragged by a 50 plus kilo "house bear" chasing her idea of crack cocaine... a squirrel.

Squirrels (or tree rabbits as we call them) are in abundance round our parts. Just the other day I saw around 20 congregating in a car park (this is not a joke or a hallucination). Just sat there scratching at the floor, nibbling away like they were having an annual meet up.

The thing is Peaches LOVES squirrels or more specifically, I think, the idea of chasing and catching these tiny agile little mammals. If you are on the end of a lead or, heaven forbid, a long line and she sees one before you... well let's just say good luck and it was nice knowing your arms.

We need to focus on this now as it is a huge and potentially painful issue and it's got me thinking what shall we do? How to go about it and who can I talk to?
First port of call was to give the fantastic Jane Ardern a call. I remember talking to her once about her Leonberger "Diddy" who had a similar issue. Jane had written a fantastic blog on predatory chase which I found and ingested one early morning. This gave me the faith that there is something we can do and that its within the realms of possibility. Sometimes you may feel, even as a professional like myself, reaching out is failure but that's not true. In fact we are so lucky to have a support network of incredible positive trainers who (as it turns out) love to help people. It can sometimes be hard to see the wood for the tree rabbits (ahem).

So one to one training session booked I am feeling enthusiastic about starting our journey. This also led me to realise that actually this journey can also start at home. Peaches has little of what we call "impulse control". I was on the phone to my friend and another great trainer Gav Muldoon when he pointed out to me that impulse control is the route to success in the critter hunting department. This sparked a lightbulb in my head as I had been concentrating so much on recall and integrating Peaches and Penny that I hadn't really had time to look at any basic impulse control exercises.

So what is Impulse Control?

We all know what a lack of impulse control looks like in dogs. It looks like a dog that jumps all over you. It looks like a dog that might pull you through a doorway to rush outside. It looks like a blur of fur accelerating past you before you've even had a chance to open the crate door or car boot fully. It's totally true that our dogs can be impatient and sometimes a little pushy to get what they want and need now. It's worth noting here that generally the smaller they are, the easier it is for us to let these things go. Penny who is a tiny Jack Russel Terrier jumping on us as we walk through the door certainly doesn’t present the same challenges as a Peaches as we disappear through the lounge window. But regardless of weight, size and strength, there are certain situations where a lack of impulse control can put our dogs in dangerous situations. If your dog rushes through your open door onto a busy road things could end badly for everyone.

It can be convenient to put these behaviours down to temperament traits that we just have to put up with. Perhaps you've fooled yourself into thinking your dog will eventually calm down and grow out of it? All of these can be tempting as it means we excuse ourselves from addressing the issue and therefore can forego training our dogs and sit down to watch Game of Thrones re - runs with a cheeky glass of Vino.

Well I'm here to get a handle on this and start at home. If you fancy joining Corrin, Peaches and myself on this journey then jump aboard as we are going to see it through for the sake of our much longer arms and sanity.

I looked up impulsivity in the dictionary and this is what I came up with - "impulsivity refers to the urge to act on a whim, with only immediate gratification in mind and little consideration for potential consequences." I understand that as a human and it turns out dogs are pretty similar. Dogs can have an urge to rush out of a car, jump on a human, get to that food, chase that bird which can often override any sense of safety for themselves (or the humans around for that matter). And although when looking at issues like this we should incorporate a "whole picture" approach that takes in diet, exercise and environment it's quite often the case that dogs have simply never been taught polite and appropriate behavior.

I have been pulled out a door, had my feet trodden on, shoved past and yanked to things on numerous occasions. When Peaches wants something she wants it NOW! The key is going to be teaching her that magic skill of patience and holding back. Letting her understand that a more patient, calm and polite approach will be far more effective in getting what she wants.

So here are the goals I have set myself as I feel a bit of impulse control will greatly improve a whole truckload of Peach-like situations.

• Calmly putting on a harness and lead


• Patiently waiting for her food bowl


• Waiting to grab a toy instead of chomping at it


• Not rushing through gates or door ways

When Peaches learns these simple techniques (and they are pretty simple) in these specific situations, she will begin to form the habits that will help her to stay focused, calm manageable in the face of a Tree Rabbit or any other situation.

So here we go... first thing is first right? What does Peaches want. We need to Identify what it is that our dog wants first. Whatever that is in that situation is going to be the reward. So for example this could be:

• Food
• Attention
• Chasing
• Play
• Access

Now for the tricky bit. As a general rule whatever it is that your dog does just before getting what he/she wants will be rewarded and therefore the behaviour is likely to be repeated. So if Peaches jumps up at me and I give her loads of attention then she is learning to jump. If she's after my attention me yelling "HELP" whilst pushing her down is just as good to her as hugs and kisses. She'll try again the next day and the next day and so on. The real trick to training some impulse control is to wait for a desired behaviour (like a sit or four paws on the floor) before you then reward your dog with the attention they want. Four paws on floor equals cuddles and love down at thier level. Win win.

You can apply this to anything. Let's look at my goals above.

Calmly putting on a harness and lead

• We could wait for a sit before you approach or perhaps scatter some food on the floor to enable you to attach the equipment. If your dog is jumping for joy at the sight of the lead just wait until they relax to begin.

Patiently waiting for her food bowl

• I will only place the bowl down if she is sat, standing or lying down. If she moves I'll raise the bowl out of the way.

Waiting to grab a toy instead of chomping it

• I can teach her that in order to grab a toy she has to wait for a cue like "go" or "gettit".

Not rushing through gates or doorways

• I can teach her that she doesn't get access the the area she wants to get to unless she first sits and waits patiently for myself or Corrin to go through first.
Be sure to not cause too much frustration. Keep the start exercises simple by making the time they are waiting tiny. We can always build. Frustration will work against us and we don't want that!

As ever you will need buckets of patience for this journey. Remaining in a calm, relaxed "buddha like" state is critical (and good practise). One of the grim realities of dog training is that if we get mad, annoyed or frustrated it will only lead to our dog’s get excitable and thus make it harder for them to learn. Unfortunately us humans suffer for a lack of impulse control at points as well. When we get frustrated we can reach for tools that that make matters worse like punishment. We can not ask our dogs to be calm, focused and make great decisions if we are failing on our side of the bargain. This will only serve to confuse your dog and make it a lot harder for them to learn. Remain calm and be the super powered body of loveliness your dog already thinks you are.

The last point is to be consistent. This journey will go a whole lot smoother and quicker if you are consistent. If we are sending all kinds of mixed messages to our dogs it will confuse them and ultimately stress them (and us) right out. Once we have chosen to work on a specific issue we need to follow through and trust that what you are doing will work.

So that's it. Are you up for it? We will be blogging and posting videos all about this journey as well as when we move onto the more "Tree Rabbity" side of things. So feel free to check us out on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/TeachesOfPeachesAndPenny/

When Food Enrichment Is A Win Win

What is a food enrichment toy?

To us the main thing is to ensure our dogs are enjoying the activity, because that's the whole point right?!

We’ve used food toys and a variety of chews to help Peaches settle into her new home with us. We wanted to create positive association with certain areas of the house that she would be spending lots of time, such as the kitchen. I know this has worked because she chooses to be in that area often when she has the choice to be in other areas of the house.

During the first few weeks we were getting to know Peaches, and we began to notice that she struggled to settle herself in the evenings. We began setting aside a portion of her meal for a stuffed food toy or a chew. Rather than waiting for her mouthing behaviour to start, we had a good idea what sort of time it may happen, so we got in before hand. Not only are you giving your dog an outlet for a behaviour by setting them up with an appropriate item, you are preventing them from practicing an unwanted behaviour, which they may find reinforcing making it more likely to be repeated.

There are many many different food toys and puzzles available for your dog, you can spend a fortune but you can also make your own, take a look at your recycling in a different way, there are some fabulous groups on Facebook if you are looking for some inspiration. There is just as much variety in the chew department, be sure to check out your local independent pet store to see what they have available. What ever options you choose, the main thing is that your dog actually finds it enriching, they have success and they aren’t getting frustrated.

As an example; a frozen Kong is too much like hard work for Peaches sometimes, so we either don't freeze them or let them defrost mostly so that it is easier.  

If you are introducing this as a new activity for your puppy, you may need to hold on to one end whilst they get the idea. Make it nice and easy to start by smearing something just on the inside and over time you can make it more of a challenge.

What I really want to stress is that we use these along side meeting their other needs. We don’t use it instead of exercise, unless the weather is awful or they are recovering from injury/having a rest day. We don’t only use them when we go out, sometimes you risk creating a negative association if your dog isn’t happy in their own company. We tend to use these to provide an outlet for chewing behaviour, promote calmness in the home, when we are busy in the home (like hoovering) and on occasions when we go out. Food enrichment toys allow you to introduce different flavours and textures so life doesn’t get too boring for your dog.

I do feed both the girls in bowls, however a good amount of their food (especially newly rescued Peaches) comes through training. That doesn’t mean I’m asking for behaviours of them all of the time but I do reinforce the behaviours they do throughout the day that work for us, making them more likely to happen. I use food enrichment toys much the same, if the girls are settled I may get them a Kong. It’s really worth noting here that if you live in a multi dog household i’d very much advise giving your dog these items separately, this avoids the risk of altercations or any of your dogs feeling stressed that one of the others may try and take it. I know how I feel when Steve is eyeing up my chips!

I do not use these to constantly occupy either Penny or Peaches, neither do we advise this. Your dog needs lots of sleep and many “problems” arise from over tired puppies and dogs.

Mental stimulation is tiring work as well, so if it’s a puzzle and they have to think about how to get the food out they are using their brain, and depending on the activity their nose, I try not to help too much but instead set a task that I know they will have success at, this varies from dog to dog. Penny is a trier and I’ve never seen her give up on anything, however she does get frustrated so again I avoid anything too challenging.

As an example here again; Penny can become obsessive with a treat ball, even when she has got all the treats out. She is so aroused by the activity and doesn’t seem to realise when the food is gone, she then gets frustrated when it stops giving out food. As I’ve said many times throughout, the whole point is that your dog enjoys the activity and if she is more stressed at the end than she was at the beginning that was not the intention. There are many different toys where this doesn’t happen so they are my preferred options.

Note to self; Penny and peaches do not need any more food toys for a while!

Note to self; Penny and peaches do not need any more food toys for a while!

Example of foods I use with Penny and Peaches

Example of foods I use with Penny and Peaches

An example of some of the foods  I use to fill and spread on food toys. This is used as part of their daily food allowance and is adding enrichment. 

In the photo I have a variety of kibbles that I soak in hot water. Then I might add the mashed sweet potatoes or grate some carrot. Perhaps a smidge of marmite or primula cheese. Low fat yogurts and a mashed strawberry. I use nature diet wet food salmon and white fish as well as an absolute favourite on theirs Butternutbox. There are many vegetables and some fruits that are good for dogs just make sure you do your checks first. 

If your dog is sensitive to change be sure to introduce new foods in very small amounts.

If your dog chews, bites and digs at things around the home and in the garden, and you need some help implementing change do get in touch we are here to help you and your dog thrive together.

Daddy or Chips?

If I recalled Penny away from something gross and smelly and didn’t pay her with something tasty or play a game with her for coming away I can tell you now if she could flip me the bird she would! Not only that, she would certainly think twice about it next time. Added to that she may even consider running back to it. Her love for me here is not enough and that’s ok, it’s not a requirement. It does not mean we don’t have a good relationship or that she is a naughty dog that only does things for food.

A common question we are asked is “when can I stop using food?”

I believe this question is asked often because there is a misunderstanding of how food is used in training and an ingrained ideology of how dogs should be taught that science has debunked. Many people believe that using food is bribery and when used to lure a dog this is true, however once a dog has an understanding of what we are asking for we reward them after the action, and over time we spread out reinforcement to strengthen and add duration to behaviours., but we never stop using food altogether.

Dogs must have food daily and we can put it all in a bowl where it is gobbled within minutes or we can use it throughout the day to make behaviours we like happen more often. This food is not always extra food, if you are using kibble to feed your dog you can use this, If you are feeding another diet such as raw you can adjust their allowance to make up for training rewards.

Food toys such as Kongs can often be referred to as distracting the dog and I completely see why it is thought of this way, however, chewing is natural behaviour for our dogs and can be a great enriching activity for them. When we give these chews/kongs ect to our dog makes a big difference, for example; Peaches needs her sleep otherwise she is like an overtired toddler, we often put some of her kibble mixed with a wet food in a Kong as an early evening settling routine, we give her this in the kitchen and afterwards let her get some rest. Rather than calling this distraction I would say it is setting Peaches up to succeed with a routine that works for her .Am I saying everyday for ever will be like this? Not necessarily, it depends on the day she has had and if, over time, with help from us she can settle down in the evening.

There is no need for your dog to gain pounds when using food to teach new behaviours and maintain already learnt ones. Steve and I take food rewards and toys on all our walks as we want to keep a reliable recall with Penny and create one with Peaches.

What your dogs finds the most reinforcing is up to them and it's our job to find out what they love. For example; Kibble or Chicken? Chicken or Ball, Ball or Game of Tug, Game of Tug or To Sniff The Hedge Line,

How the environment may change what you use

For example; when training at home, dinner kibble may work really well but when out on walks they snub the kibble for that sniff or to say hello to that dog in the distance. We suggest saving those high rewards for the more distracting environments.

Love & Praise

Using verbal praise as feedback really helps our dogs, but as a general rule on it's own it is rarely enough, be sure to tell them they are getting it right, use what ever voice you feel comfortable using but know that most dogs love our silly happy voices and pair this with food, toys, play or one of their freedoms.

Love (stroking or cuddles) there are some dogs that do find this reinforcing, Peaches for example who is a Newfoundland adores a cuddle but it wouldn't be enough in some environments, Penny our Jack Russel Terrier Would be miffed if you even considered that as reinforcing, especially outdoors.

Examples of Freedoms

  • Running for pure joy

  • Sniffing

  • Playing with doggy friends

  • Saying hello to favourite humans or new ones

  • Splashing in a puddle

  • Digging

  • Swimming

So in conclusion don’t be disheartened that your dog doesn’t do something just because it pleases you. Don’t shy away from using food when you can use it to reinforce the behaviours you like. Use more than you think you should just make sure you it’s not extra, cut them into smaller pieces so that you can rapidly reward new behaviours when you start teaching. In time you can add duration between rewards or select which behaviours you reinforce depending on what you are teaching. You need to also maintain behaviours so never stop reinforcing altogether.

Food is friend…mmmm chips!

Want to learn more about how we train our dogs? Follow Penny and the Giant Peach on Facebook.

We offer online consultations if you need help working through a problem you have with your dog. Get in touch to book.

The relationship piggy bank

A blog by Steven Goodall

"If you have built castles in the air, your work need not be lost; that is where they should be. Now put the foundations under them."

- Henry David Thoreau,

A successful relationship with our dogs requires growth and learning to flourish. We are still getting to know Peaches our giant rescued Newfoundland, still building trust. She is learning about us and we are learning about her and the journey is incredible.

Peaches absolutely adores a head massage. I've seen her on numerous occasions buckle and slump with a meditative look in those deep eyes because of a well meaning scalp rub. These moments might seem small but they are everything to us. These tiny things we are finding out about one another are going to serve as the foundations to our relationship.

Before we even think about Recall, loose lead work or "that squirrel issue", we have to work on building a solid foundation of trust and understanding. This is the biggest reason we are taking our time. Whether within or between a species, relationships are much the same in what they need to grow and flourish.

Once this foundation work is set in stone we can start to concentrate on building up towards the skies.

We should all look at our relationship foundations from time to time. It's never too late to go back, assess and build back up from the bottom. This can, and often will, help with all sorts of "problem" behaviours.

Here are some super simple but super effective things to try to help build that bond and have your relationship thrive with your dog.

• Take some time - make an effort to be with them. Really put yourself in the moment with them. Observe what they are doing, slow down and enjoy it. Spending time together will strengthen your relationship.

• Try to learn what they are telling you - Just a little knowledge of how your dog communicates can help your relationship flourish. We have a responsibility to identify the signs that our dogs are stressed are anxious. This will lead to you making better decisions. I was lucky to interview Turid Rugaas this year for my podcast "Barks From The Bookshelf". Turid wrote the book (literally) on body language in canines and reading 'On Talking Terms With Dogs: Calming Signals' is a great place to start.

• Communication - We all miscommunicate with our own species so it's no wonder we struggle at times with our dogs. Be mindful, clear and consistent. They are constantly observing your every move which means that we should really think about what we doing when we communicate with them. Constant misunderstanding can cause relationships to break down so learn to be as clear as you can.

• Food - If you are anything like me, the way to my heart is through my stomach. By making sure we offer and supply healthy, scrumptious food options that vary in taste and texture we can cement that love for us. Corrin sometimes prepares a picnic for our dogs. She will get all sorts of different foods that our dogs and we can both eat, put them all in different containers and head out into the garden with a blanket. She will then sit there on the blanket with the dogs and open each container letting them sniff and taste each item while she joins in. It's a beautiful thing to see them there sharing this moment and I can see how much our dogs love having a little love put into this.

• Play - "Those who play together stay together". The science is clear on this. The more we play the closer our relationships. Having fun by playing games of chase, tug or find it is a fun way to strengthen bonds and put money in that relationship piggy bank. Find out what your dog loves to do and spend a few times a day having a play. It doesn't have to be for hours, just a couple of short play sessions a day can really make a big difference.

• Don't lose it - This one is tricky right? We all have moments when we lose our cool. We just have to understand that shouting, scolding and punishing our dogs will damage the relationship. They need to learn we have their backs. They need to learn they are safe with us.

• Learn what they like - As I said above Peaches likes a head massage. Now I know this I can use this to strengthen our relationship. It's also worth noting down what our dogs don't like. Peaches enjoys a head rub but doesn't like me reaching out quickly towards her head. I have to take it slow. We want to be, to the best of our ability, the source of everything that is wonderful in our dogs lives.

• Touch them - The science on this is fascinating. It has been shown that stroking, grooming and simple touching can lower the heart rate in both the dog and the human. It can reduce stress by lower the levels of cortisol (the stress hormone) and even increase our anti stress hormone oxytocin. We now believe that physical contact plays a vital role in enhancing our relationships. As a small caveat not all dogs like to be petted and stroked. This is why we need to make sure we have that understanding of how they communicate. This will help us interpret when they are happy being groomed and petted.

Here at Goodall Dog Training Headquarters we see our dogs as our best friends, companions and, more importantly, as family members. They enhance our life in so many ways it's impossible to list them all. They make us smile and laugh all the time in their own special and unique styles and a world without them would be a much darker place.

It’s all about the relationship. If you need help building and maintaining these foundations we can help, visit the contact us section here on the website to find out what option will suit you and your dog best.

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